CLOCKS AND WATCHES

In The Guts Of The Town, Just Within The Jetty, The Sponza Palace Pays Tribute To The Handfuls Of Local Boys Who Paid The Ultimate Sacrifice Defending Their City.

Like a phoenix Dubrovnik, the Athens of the Adriatic, has risen from virtual destruction after Slobodan Milosovic’s Serbian armed forces devastated the city in 1991. Seventy % of the homes suffered damage from the bombing. Even the ancient wall that surrounds the old city was pounded by the tank shelling. Yet today Dubrovnik is a tourist destination. The old city has been reconstructed. First-class hostels are a feature of the hillside. This precious stone of a town is a living memorial to human resiliency.

In the guts of the city, just within the jetty, the Sponza Palace pays tribute to the dozens of local boys who paid the final sacrifice defending their city. But 20 years back appears like the distant past. Now pizza and ice cream stands abound. The orange roofs of times past have been replaced. Holiday makers from Japan, Israel, Germany and China fill the primary street. And the fumes of fried fish are pervasive.

Dubrovnik is Croatia’s hydra-headed metropolis. It’s been devastated by visiting armies and tremors and yet it survives, protected by the ancient parable of Saint Blaise, who promised to defeat Ragusa’s (the first name of Dubrovnik) enemies. During the past, this city was a centre for scholars, artists and teachers. It appeared to be an ecumenical community different from the other settlements in the area. As a commercial center, it caught the interest of Venetian leaders who led attacks for decades against their rivals in the south Adriatic.

The 1.6-mile wall surrounding the city is an imposing architectural wonder. For elderly travellers it’s also a stress test. There are 335 steps going up and around this barrier. It is not the Great Wall of China, neither is it a walk in the park. On the way are forts and historic monuments to a past that gives the present meaning. Looking down one finds roofs being fixed, a sea glittering with little vessels and enclosed basketball courts. The Croats are basketball crazy.

A few years gone Don Rumsfeld, former secretary of defense, made reference to the two Europes : the old Western Europestolid, socialistic and lacking entrepreneurial drive, and an Eastern Europefilled with potency, and spotting the benefit of free markets and democratic govts. Croatia obviously falls into the second camp.

Dubrovnik is fresh, searching for a future that has a resemblance to the U.S. Her glory days may be behind her, but it is interesting that Gloria Gaynor has been asked to perform in the seaside wonderland. America waves. Rumour has it the Russian oligarchs have invested seriously in and around this city. It’s a far less risky investment harbour than anywhere in Russia. Moreover, Russian oligarchs have a powerful sense of smell for American capitalism, and that capitalistic fervor is active in Dubrovnik’s economy.

It is too shortly to say whether the Dalmatian coast will be the new French Riviera. Nevertheless it is definitely not a far-fetched agenda. Dubrovnik is the center of the utopian scenario, not yet San Tropez ; not yet discovered by the flash and dash of the up to date jet set, though not yet a long way from discovery either. Always in pursuit of new destinations, the holiday maker peregrines have found Dubrovnik. My suspicion is the glitterati will be on their way.

What they will find is an attractive beach resort with an extraordinary history that awakens a wish to dig into the chapters of this passion-laden destination, writes tagza.com.
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